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Shows, Meets, Events and Get Togethers / Re: Spring Thaw 2018
« Last post by Matthew on May 05, 2018, 03:27:15 PM »
The weather was so terrible I didn't go. I had the LSC all ready for it, but it just wasn't happening.

Of course, this forum, like many, is pretty underused these days, but with all of the nonsense going on with Facebook it seems like keeping it open is a good idea. I check in here fairly regularly.

Next big show is Didsbury, which is next weekend. I am planning to attend that as well, weather permitting, though I am not 100% decided what I would take to it.

-Matthew
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Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on April 30, 2018, 10:37:55 PM »
An upgrade like this project demands a few supporting parts, most notably a fuel pump. While a fuel pump install is not a whole lot of fun, you have to bite the bullet and get it done if you want to make some power. I see some instructions going around the Mark VII community about cutting a hole in the trunk to access the pump, but the real way to get at it is to drop the tank.


I usually use a jack under the tank to help handle it, and I did this time as well, but the Lincoln tank is considerably larger than the Mustang tank and consequently harder to handle this way. In addition, the wiring to the Mustang tank can be disconnected with a quick connector at the back of the car, but the Lincoln tank wiring can only be disconnected on top of the tank, which is kind of awkward when balanced on a floor jack.


Here's a shot of the tank removed from the car, ready to start the pump install.


The pump itself is attached to a fuel hat which is retained to the tank with a lock ring. If your tank is anything like mine, this will be packed with dirt and corrosion, and will take some cleaning up before you remove the hat. A shop vac is very helpful at this point. Use a brass drift to drive the lock ring off to avoid potentially fatal sparks. Getting this cleaned up and removed would be particularly hard through a hole cut in the floor of the trunk.


Once you get the lock ring off, you can pull the fuel hat/fuel pump assembly out of the tank.


Here's a look at the fuel hat/fuel pump assembly removed from the car.


The lincoln pump is mounted at a 45* angle rather than vertically like the Mustang, and uses a different strainer. The strainer, or a reasonable facsimile of it is available, but won't come with a pump meant for a Mustang so make sure you source the strainer separately when doing this job.


Replace the factory pump with a high volume pump, like this Walbro 255, and solder or crimp in the new connectors. Do not use electrical tape because it will just delaminate and float around in the tank.


When you put it back together, it is a good idea to clean up the lock ring with a wire wheel.


Take a look in the tank to see if any debris has fallen in and clean it out before putting it all back together.


A large fuel pump draws a significantly higher amperage than the stock pump, and if it is going to work at peak efficiency, you should rewire the fuel system. The best way to do this is to run a single 10 gauge power lead from the battery or starter solenoid to the back of the car, then run it though a relay. Cut the factory fuel pump circuit and use the body side of it to trigger the relay, then connect the power side of the pump circuit to the power circuit of the relay. Finally, ground the ground side of the pump circuit to the chassis.


A good place to ground the pump is to one of the tank strap bosses. Clean off a small spot and drill a hole to get a good ground.


Once you have finished the rewire, tie it all up neatly.


With a 255 lph pump and upgraded wiring, the car is ready to make as much power as the stock block can take!

-Matthew
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Shows, Meets, Events and Get Togethers / Re: Spring Thaw 2018
« Last post by DC on April 27, 2018, 12:18:33 PM »
I see that there has been an underwhelming response to your inquiry.  Too bad.  I am planning to attend as a spectator.  I couldn't get my coyote swap done due to an exceedingly long and cold winter.  Looking forward to seeing you there.
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Shows, Meets, Events and Get Togethers / Spring Thaw 2018
« Last post by Matthew on April 24, 2018, 06:30:58 AM »
The Nifty Fifities Spring Thaw this year is Sunday April 29 at Heritage Park in Calgary. I'm thinking I am going to take the Lincoln and see if the crowd like it too. Does anyone else plan to attend?

-Matthew
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Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on April 15, 2018, 07:45:55 PM »
Another task that is required after a build like this and before you really turn a wheel is to set up the throttle valve. Most of you are aware that if your TV bushing falls out and your cable becomes disconnected from the throttle, that you can roast the transmission in under 10 miles or on your first WOT pull. The factory setup is to simply take the slack out of the TV cable and click it into the bushing, but the pressure is very sensitive to the cable length so the best way to set it is to use a pressure gauge on the TV port. The toughest part of this is the difficult location of the TV port


Here's an overview look at the location of the TV port with the gauge installed.


You should also protect the hose with some heat wrap like this.


There is a special Ford tool to space the throttle cable out in order to check the pressure. Pressure should be checked with the car in Neutral.


With the tool installed, the pressure should be as close to 33 psi as possible. Mine was right on the money.


With the tool removed, pressure should go back to zero.


That's one step closer to being on the road!

-Matthew
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Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on April 08, 2018, 09:51:53 PM »
Getting it started is one thing, getting it on the road is a little more involved. After the first start I noted that it was killing the battery pretty quickly. Honestly, I think it likely had this problem before but I didn't live with the car long enough to be sure. After some testing I determined that there was a problem with the voltage regulator which was causing a short to ground and killing the battery. I replaced the voltage regulator which seemed to resolve the battery drain, but when I fired the car up the system voltage was 17.5V, which is getting high enough to do some damage to electronics. In fact, this problem may be the reason that the voltage regulator was fried. In any event, an alternator replacement was needed, and the only smart play with one of these cars when that happens is to swap it to a 3G.

I got some feedback that a 94/95 Mustang alternator would fit and I had one on the shelf, but the Lincoln uses an 8.25" bolt spacing while the Mustang uses a 7" bolt spacing, so it is a no-go with the Lincoln bracket. Here's a shot of the Mustang alternator with the Lincoln bracket.


Fortunately, I also had a Fox Mustang alternator bracket on the shelf, and one that had the minor clearancing needed for the 3G 94/95 Mustang swap. As you can see it fits the alternator much better.


There are a few instructions on converting to a 3G available, but this set has nice clear wiring diagrams and is a very useful reference: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/3g-conversion.html

When doing a 3G conversion it is imperative that you upgrade the main power bus. Here I have installed a 150 amp manual reset breaker in the new circuit which uses 2 gauge wire from the breaker to the starter solenoid and 4 gauge for the short run from the breaker to the alternator.


Here's a shot with everything wired up.


And here's a look at the whole thing installed in the car. The 3G wiring plug is a part that you can buy from an auto parts store, and one that you will need to complete the install.


With the alternator setup in the car, the voltage and battery drain problems are a thing of the past, plus now it has a strong reliable power source that will support additional electrical accessories in the future such as an electric fan.


-Matthew
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Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on March 28, 2018, 09:47:04 PM »
One of the last steps was to install the Performer RPM II upper intake. One issue with the Edelbrock intake is that the threaded bosses for the fuel rail bolts are too shallow for the stock bolts. I ended up having to cut down some 1/4" bolts to around 1/2" to bolt the fuel rails up.


Here's a shot with the fuel rails bolted up. I used 47# injectors and Jetronic to USCAR adapters to make them compatible with the older Ford harness.


It's a good opportunity to check the fuel system for leaks when you have everything hooked up, but before installing the upper intake. Everything was fine this time.


In this day and age a 75mm throttle body seems pretty small, but the Performer RPM II doesn't even support that big of a throttle directly, so I had to gasket match it to work right with the 75mm BBK throttle.


I use a Sharpie to mark the gasket opening on the manifold.


It doesn't take long with a carbide bit to match it up. It's a good idea to use some shop towel in the throat of the manifold to reduce the cleanup afterwards. You don't want to leave a bunch of aluminum filings in it to get sucked into the motor when you start it!


The Performer RPM II upper has a lot of threaded bosses for vacuum fittings. I set it up for PCV, vacuum tree, fuel pressure regulator/MAP, and Evap canister.


Here's a view of the underside ready to go on the car.


It did have a little problem getting the AC lines to fit around the upper intake, but managed to massage them enough to fit together.


Here it is, ready for a test start.


Finally, I know there have been some questions about how low these long tubes hang. They are not as tight as the stock exhaust, but really they don't create a huge new clearance problem.


After this, I was able to get the car started up and get the fluids topped up. There are still lots of little details to finish up including adapting a Mustang exhaust to it, but getting to the startup phase is a major milestone.

-Matthew
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Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on March 20, 2018, 11:39:10 PM »
So with the header crisis resolved it was time to start putting the powertrain back in the car. Normally I would bolt the transmission and engine together and drop them in as a unit, but with the steering shaft fitment issues with these headers I figured that it was going to be easier to drop in the motor, install the headers, then install the transmission separately from underneath. The passenger side header can be bolted right up tight and the engine installed like that, then the driver's side header is fitted. To save you guys some time if you try this, here is a step by step for the header install:

    - Once the headers are clearanced and the offset rack bushings are installed, remove the steering shaft.
    - Install the passenger header and tighten it up.
    - Drop the engine without the transmission most of the way in place, but suspended a little bit above the k-member.
    - Install driver's side header from underneath and tighten all fasteners.
    - Even if you cannot get all of the fasteners tight, go ahead and drop the engine onto the K-member and bolt it in place.
    - Install the steering shaft. Use loctite on the threads for the u-joint retaining bolt.
    - If you could not tighten all the fasteners on the driver's side, get the hoist and load leveller out of the way then remove the driver''s side valve cover to gain additional clearance to reach the driver's header bolts.



Once you have the motor in place, the next step is to get the transmission and shifter in. One of the notorious weak spots on an AOD is the secondary input shaft. You have a number of options here, but if you want to keep a close to stock converter with lockup the right choice is to replace the secondary shaft with a hardened secondary like this TCI unit at the bottom of the picture with the factory shaft shown at the top for comparison. The replacement procedure is as simple as pulling the stock shaft out and sliding the hardened shaft back in place.


It's a good idea to replace the pump seal at the front of the transmission while you have it out of the car.


The most common assembly problem at this stage is failing to get the torque converter engaged in the pump. To check this, lay a straight edge across the bellhousing face and check that the ends of the converter studs are about 3/8" recessed. I used a depth gauge, but there is a big difference between a correctly seated converted and one that has not engaged the pump, so you can see it visibly. If the studs are not recessed like this, do not proceed with assembly until you have the converter installed right. I didn't take pictures of the install, but while the transmission is tight to get past the headers and in place from underneath, a little patience and the right angles gets the job done. Have enough extensions to reach a long way up with your socket to get the bellhousing bolts torqued up!


The next hurdle is the B&M Hammer shifter. First, let's take a look at the stock shifter. From the driver's side you can see the front pull shifter cable, the steering wheel lock cable, and the gear indicator illumination bulb.


On the passenger side you can see the vacuum control for the shifter activated e-brake release. This is never going to work with the Hammer, so you should make a note to disconnect this line in the engine bay as well.


Here's a shot of the stock shifter and the universal Hammer side by side. They are pretty similar in form factor, but the Hammer needs to be installed a little bit to the right of where the stocker was in order to get the gear indicator panel centered on the console.


Take the time to mock the Hammer up with the console to be sure you are installing it in the right place.


Here's a top down shot of the Hammer mocked up with the console.


The strategy that I used to mount the Hammer was to build adapter plates to bolt it to factory attachment points. I cut these out of some light steel plate with a plasma cutter.


Here's the Hammer with the rear adapter plate. Note the offset, and that it will bolt directly to the factory shifter's rear mount points on the tunnel.


You don't need the console for the rest of the installation so I removed it. With the shifter mounted at the back it was clear that there was an interference issue with the bracket in front of the shifter.


I cut the back part of the offending bracket out with an air saw and unbolted it from the studs. Then I made another adapter plate to attach the front of the shifter to those studs. Don't worry, the remaining portion of the bracket is strong enough to do the job it is supposed to do.


Here's a shot of the Hammer bolted to the two adapter plates, ready to go in the car.


With the bracket out of the way, you can cut the 1.5" hole in the floor that B&M calls for, and notch the mount bracket to work with the hole, then you can go ahead an bolt the shifter and cable in place.


I had a 1.5" grommet on hand that worked well with this setup, but finding a grommet is totally up to you.


You will also have to tie the steering wheel lock cable in the "park" position as part of the installation.


Under the car you can see the cable come through near the left side of the transmission, and notice that I used the factory grommet to route the wiring for the Lentech valve body electric OD lockout.


Here's an overview look at the cable routing from underneath. It is done exactly the way that B&M suggests and works fine. I tried a 3' cable directly to the transmission, but it was going to kink excessively, so the suggested routing turned out to be the best.


The linkage has lots of clearance to the headers too.


A final, closer shot of the linkage.


-Matthew
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Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on March 13, 2018, 10:07:53 PM »
I'm getting a little behind on this thread with respect to the actual project but I will try to catch up a bit here.

Since the Flowtech headers had no chance of fitting this 1990 LSC, I ordered up some BBK part 1531 headers which are meant for the automatic Mustang. Summit sent them to me overnight to avoid a big delay in the project.


These are the chrome versions of the headers, laid out with the engine here.


A shot of the the headers test fit to the engine.


I test fit the headers with the transmission too to make sure that if they do fit the car, they will fit with the driveline.


I suspect that they would fit the Lincoln stock linkage as well, but there is obviously no problem with the B&M linkage on this AOD.


Here's a rear shot with the transmission.


The real name of the game with headers on these cars is getting them to fit with the steering shaft. Unlike the Fox Mustang, all of the collapsibility  is built into the shaft instead of the column.


A first step on this kind of job is to make an initial test fit. These headers are tantalizingly close, but don't actually fit. The steering shaft is clearly meant to go between the #6 primary and the rest, but it rubs at the upper U Joint.


The rag joint at the bottom is also a problem with these headers.


Passenger side fitment was more or less ok, but they were awfully close to a brake line on that side in one place.


So, clearly some adjustments are necessary to get these headers to work. My first step was to install a set of offset rack bushings that I had laying around from a Mustang project, except I put them in to lower the rack instead of raise it. I also made sure that the collar that goes over the splined shaft on the rack and bolts to the rag joint was set as low as possible on the rack.


These adjustments solved the rag joint clearance problem, though they will require an alignment when it is all over.


Next, it was time for a big hammer to relieve the #6 primary to make room for the steering shaft. The most complicated part of this was clearancing the inside of the tube since you can't get a direct swing at it with a hammer. I bolted the header to an old head, then used a long heavy rod on the inside anchored by capturing it under my four post lift, then I was able to strike it with a big hammer and get a relief on the inside of the tube.


The next step was a big hammer on the part of the tube that interferes with the U joint on the steering shaft.


Here's another look at the #6 primary relief.


I also threw away the rubber boot on the steering shaft because that is just going to melt off the first time the headers get hot.


Once these reliefs were beaten into the headers, the steering shaft cleared fine.


Another look at the clearance.


As a final step I put a little dent in the #1 tube where it was so close to the brake line, and wrapped that part with some heat wrap.


-Matthew
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Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on March 07, 2018, 08:43:50 PM »
I just left it on to keep it clean because there was so much build up everywhere on the engine that I was cleaning off. I have the engine and transmission back in the car as of tonight, so I am moving on to the button up phase and heading for a first start. Still quite a bit to do, and I will need to change the fuel pump before it can hit the dyno, but so far the project is on track!

-Matthew
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