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Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on April 15, 2018, 07:45:55 PM »
Another task that is required after a build like this and before you really turn a wheel is to set up the throttle valve. Most of you are aware that if your TV bushing falls out and your cable becomes disconnected from the throttle, that you can roast the transmission in under 10 miles or on your first WOT pull. The factory setup is to simply take the slack out of the TV cable and click it into the bushing, but the pressure is very sensitive to the cable length so the best way to set it is to use a pressure gauge on the TV port. The toughest part of this is the difficult location of the TV port

Here's an overview look at the location of the TV port with the gauge installed.

You should also protect the hose with some heat wrap like this.

There is a special Ford tool to space the throttle cable out in order to check the pressure. Pressure should be checked with the car in Neutral.

With the tool installed, the pressure should be as close to 33 psi as possible. Mine was right on the money.

With the tool removed, pressure should go back to zero.

That's one step closer to being on the road!

Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on April 08, 2018, 09:51:53 PM »
Getting it started is one thing, getting it on the road is a little more involved. After the first start I noted that it was killing the battery pretty quickly. Honestly, I think it likely had this problem before but I didn't live with the car long enough to be sure. After some testing I determined that there was a problem with the voltage regulator which was causing a short to ground and killing the battery. I replaced the voltage regulator which seemed to resolve the battery drain, but when I fired the car up the system voltage was 17.5V, which is getting high enough to do some damage to electronics. In fact, this problem may be the reason that the voltage regulator was fried. In any event, an alternator replacement was needed, and the only smart play with one of these cars when that happens is to swap it to a 3G.

I got some feedback that a 94/95 Mustang alternator would fit and I had one on the shelf, but the Lincoln uses an 8.25" bolt spacing while the Mustang uses a 7" bolt spacing, so it is a no-go with the Lincoln bracket. Here's a shot of the Mustang alternator with the Lincoln bracket.

Fortunately, I also had a Fox Mustang alternator bracket on the shelf, and one that had the minor clearancing needed for the 3G 94/95 Mustang swap. As you can see it fits the alternator much better.

There are a few instructions on converting to a 3G available, but this set has nice clear wiring diagrams and is a very useful reference:

When doing a 3G conversion it is imperative that you upgrade the main power bus. Here I have installed a 150 amp manual reset breaker in the new circuit which uses 2 gauge wire from the breaker to the starter solenoid and 4 gauge for the short run from the breaker to the alternator.

Here's a shot with everything wired up.

And here's a look at the whole thing installed in the car. The 3G wiring plug is a part that you can buy from an auto parts store, and one that you will need to complete the install.

With the alternator setup in the car, the voltage and battery drain problems are a thing of the past, plus now it has a strong reliable power source that will support additional electrical accessories in the future such as an electric fan.

Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on March 28, 2018, 09:47:04 PM »
One of the last steps was to install the Performer RPM II upper intake. One issue with the Edelbrock intake is that the threaded bosses for the fuel rail bolts are too shallow for the stock bolts. I ended up having to cut down some 1/4" bolts to around 1/2" to bolt the fuel rails up.

Here's a shot with the fuel rails bolted up. I used 47# injectors and Jetronic to USCAR adapters to make them compatible with the older Ford harness.

It's a good opportunity to check the fuel system for leaks when you have everything hooked up, but before installing the upper intake. Everything was fine this time.

In this day and age a 75mm throttle body seems pretty small, but the Performer RPM II doesn't even support that big of a throttle directly, so I had to gasket match it to work right with the 75mm BBK throttle.

I use a Sharpie to mark the gasket opening on the manifold.

It doesn't take long with a carbide bit to match it up. It's a good idea to use some shop towel in the throat of the manifold to reduce the cleanup afterwards. You don't want to leave a bunch of aluminum filings in it to get sucked into the motor when you start it!

The Performer RPM II upper has a lot of threaded bosses for vacuum fittings. I set it up for PCV, vacuum tree, fuel pressure regulator/MAP, and Evap canister.

Here's a view of the underside ready to go on the car.

It did have a little problem getting the AC lines to fit around the upper intake, but managed to massage them enough to fit together.

Here it is, ready for a test start.

Finally, I know there have been some questions about how low these long tubes hang. They are not as tight as the stock exhaust, but really they don't create a huge new clearance problem.

After this, I was able to get the car started up and get the fluids topped up. There are still lots of little details to finish up including adapting a Mustang exhaust to it, but getting to the startup phase is a major milestone.

Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on March 20, 2018, 11:39:10 PM »
So with the header crisis resolved it was time to start putting the powertrain back in the car. Normally I would bolt the transmission and engine together and drop them in as a unit, but with the steering shaft fitment issues with these headers I figured that it was going to be easier to drop in the motor, install the headers, then install the transmission separately from underneath. The passenger side header can be bolted right up tight and the engine installed like that, then the driver's side header is fitted. To save you guys some time if you try this, here is a step by step for the header install:

    - Once the headers are clearanced and the offset rack bushings are installed, remove the steering shaft.
    - Install the passenger header and tighten it up.
    - Drop the engine without the transmission most of the way in place, but suspended a little bit above the k-member.
    - Install driver's side header from underneath and tighten all fasteners.
    - Even if you cannot get all of the fasteners tight, go ahead and drop the engine onto the K-member and bolt it in place.
    - Install the steering shaft. Use loctite on the threads for the u-joint retaining bolt.
    - If you could not tighten all the fasteners on the driver's side, get the hoist and load leveller out of the way then remove the driver''s side valve cover to gain additional clearance to reach the driver's header bolts.

Once you have the motor in place, the next step is to get the transmission and shifter in. One of the notorious weak spots on an AOD is the secondary input shaft. You have a number of options here, but if you want to keep a close to stock converter with lockup the right choice is to replace the secondary shaft with a hardened secondary like this TCI unit at the bottom of the picture with the factory shaft shown at the top for comparison. The replacement procedure is as simple as pulling the stock shaft out and sliding the hardened shaft back in place.

It's a good idea to replace the pump seal at the front of the transmission while you have it out of the car.

The most common assembly problem at this stage is failing to get the torque converter engaged in the pump. To check this, lay a straight edge across the bellhousing face and check that the ends of the converter studs are about 3/8" recessed. I used a depth gauge, but there is a big difference between a correctly seated converted and one that has not engaged the pump, so you can see it visibly. If the studs are not recessed like this, do not proceed with assembly until you have the converter installed right. I didn't take pictures of the install, but while the transmission is tight to get past the headers and in place from underneath, a little patience and the right angles gets the job done. Have enough extensions to reach a long way up with your socket to get the bellhousing bolts torqued up!

The next hurdle is the B&M Hammer shifter. First, let's take a look at the stock shifter. From the driver's side you can see the front pull shifter cable, the steering wheel lock cable, and the gear indicator illumination bulb.

On the passenger side you can see the vacuum control for the shifter activated e-brake release. This is never going to work with the Hammer, so you should make a note to disconnect this line in the engine bay as well.

Here's a shot of the stock shifter and the universal Hammer side by side. They are pretty similar in form factor, but the Hammer needs to be installed a little bit to the right of where the stocker was in order to get the gear indicator panel centered on the console.

Take the time to mock the Hammer up with the console to be sure you are installing it in the right place.

Here's a top down shot of the Hammer mocked up with the console.

The strategy that I used to mount the Hammer was to build adapter plates to bolt it to factory attachment points. I cut these out of some light steel plate with a plasma cutter.

Here's the Hammer with the rear adapter plate. Note the offset, and that it will bolt directly to the factory shifter's rear mount points on the tunnel.

You don't need the console for the rest of the installation so I removed it. With the shifter mounted at the back it was clear that there was an interference issue with the bracket in front of the shifter.

I cut the back part of the offending bracket out with an air saw and unbolted it from the studs. Then I made another adapter plate to attach the front of the shifter to those studs. Don't worry, the remaining portion of the bracket is strong enough to do the job it is supposed to do.

Here's a shot of the Hammer bolted to the two adapter plates, ready to go in the car.

With the bracket out of the way, you can cut the 1.5" hole in the floor that B&M calls for, and notch the mount bracket to work with the hole, then you can go ahead an bolt the shifter and cable in place.

I had a 1.5" grommet on hand that worked well with this setup, but finding a grommet is totally up to you.

You will also have to tie the steering wheel lock cable in the "park" position as part of the installation.

Under the car you can see the cable come through near the left side of the transmission, and notice that I used the factory grommet to route the wiring for the Lentech valve body electric OD lockout.

Here's an overview look at the cable routing from underneath. It is done exactly the way that B&M suggests and works fine. I tried a 3' cable directly to the transmission, but it was going to kink excessively, so the suggested routing turned out to be the best.

The linkage has lots of clearance to the headers too.

A final, closer shot of the linkage.

Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on March 13, 2018, 10:07:53 PM »
I'm getting a little behind on this thread with respect to the actual project but I will try to catch up a bit here.

Since the Flowtech headers had no chance of fitting this 1990 LSC, I ordered up some BBK part 1531 headers which are meant for the automatic Mustang. Summit sent them to me overnight to avoid a big delay in the project.

These are the chrome versions of the headers, laid out with the engine here.

A shot of the the headers test fit to the engine.

I test fit the headers with the transmission too to make sure that if they do fit the car, they will fit with the driveline.

I suspect that they would fit the Lincoln stock linkage as well, but there is obviously no problem with the B&M linkage on this AOD.

Here's a rear shot with the transmission.

The real name of the game with headers on these cars is getting them to fit with the steering shaft. Unlike the Fox Mustang, all of the collapsibility  is built into the shaft instead of the column.

A first step on this kind of job is to make an initial test fit. These headers are tantalizingly close, but don't actually fit. The steering shaft is clearly meant to go between the #6 primary and the rest, but it rubs at the upper U Joint.

The rag joint at the bottom is also a problem with these headers.

Passenger side fitment was more or less ok, but they were awfully close to a brake line on that side in one place.

So, clearly some adjustments are necessary to get these headers to work. My first step was to install a set of offset rack bushings that I had laying around from a Mustang project, except I put them in to lower the rack instead of raise it. I also made sure that the collar that goes over the splined shaft on the rack and bolts to the rag joint was set as low as possible on the rack.

These adjustments solved the rag joint clearance problem, though they will require an alignment when it is all over.

Next, it was time for a big hammer to relieve the #6 primary to make room for the steering shaft. The most complicated part of this was clearancing the inside of the tube since you can't get a direct swing at it with a hammer. I bolted the header to an old head, then used a long heavy rod on the inside anchored by capturing it under my four post lift, then I was able to strike it with a big hammer and get a relief on the inside of the tube.

The next step was a big hammer on the part of the tube that interferes with the U joint on the steering shaft.

Here's another look at the #6 primary relief.

I also threw away the rubber boot on the steering shaft because that is just going to melt off the first time the headers get hot.

Once these reliefs were beaten into the headers, the steering shaft cleared fine.

Another look at the clearance.

As a final step I put a little dent in the #1 tube where it was so close to the brake line, and wrapped that part with some heat wrap.

Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on March 07, 2018, 08:43:50 PM »
I just left it on to keep it clean because there was so much build up everywhere on the engine that I was cleaning off. I have the engine and transmission back in the car as of tonight, so I am moving on to the button up phase and heading for a first start. Still quite a bit to do, and I will need to change the fuel pump before it can hit the dyno, but so far the project is on track!

Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by 52Merc on March 07, 2018, 08:37:12 PM »
First time I've ever seen an engine upside down on a stand with the filter still mounted. How's the project coming along?
Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on February 27, 2018, 08:37:57 PM »
With the motor nearly ready to go back in the car, it was time to check whether the Flowtech headers will fit in the car.

Here's the bad news: The #8 primary on the Flowtech's comes away from the head significantly before angling down, and unfortunately it interferes with the LSC's steering shaft.

Here's a view from underneath with the steering shaft removed. I thought maybe I could thread the shaft through the primaries or use a different steering shaft but the #8 primary is 100% in the way, so these headers are just not going to fit.

Here's a different angle from underneath that highlights the interference problem. Not to worry, plan B is to try the BBK headers that LLFordman got to work, and I have a brand new set on the floor tonight waiting their turn at trying to fit this car!

In the meantime, I completed swapping parts from the stock lower intake and fitting it out.

When you install a lower intake on a Windsor style Ford (or any engine with a wedge shaped intake manifold), you should use long studs in the four corners. Not only will these help to hold the intake gaskets in place while you get the manifold on, but they allow you to drop the manifold directly in the correct place in one stroke. That makes it much easier to avoid manifold gasket leaks on the assembled engine which are often caused by moving the manifold around while it is in contact with the gaskets. When you torque the head bolts down, it's a good idea to torque the inboard ones 10 foot-pounds more than the outboard ones in a final step to counteract the wedging effect of torquing down the lower intake.

The whole setup is basically ready to go back in the car, once the header crisis is resolved.

Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on February 27, 2018, 08:20:07 PM »
If you are interested in an objective comparison of the weight of stock heads versus aluminum heads, you are in luck.

The assembled E7TE heads weighed in at 50 pounds each.

Here's the new TFS track heat 170's on the scale.

The TFS heads weighed in at 29 pounds each. Other aluminum heads will be very similar. This set of heads will take 42 pounds off the nose of the car once installed.

I used new ARP head bolts on this project. The hardened washers are chamfered on one side, so pay attention if you are installing them. I like to lubricate the heads and washers with ARP moly lube and lay them out like this in preparation for the install. The outboard bolts on a 302 like this go into the water jacket, so they need a sealer on the threads, while the inboard bolts use moly lube on the threads to get the torque settings right.

My choice of head gasket for a mild build like this is the Felpro 1011-2. Here you can see a set on the block ready for the heads.

Here's a shot from the front showing the rocker studs, new hardened TFS pushrods, and the valves.

If you are going to use the stock valve covers with a setup like this, they will need some clearancing. At the minimum the oil filler baffle and attachment bosses have to be removed. I put paintstick on the rocker arms in the other places which might interfere, install the valve covers and turn the engine over a few times, then check for any witness marks. In this case with the Comp rocker arms, no other clearancing requirements were apparent.

I used a die grinder to get rid of the oil filler baffle boss on the passenger valve cover.

All kinds of clearance issues can come up with a new manifold, so it is a good idea to mock up the upper with the fuel injectors, rails, and heater tubes. One reason to use the stock valve covers is to reduce potential clearance issues, and even with the harness adapters on the 47# injectors, there were no throttle linkage or other clearance issues noted. The fuel rail attachment bosses on the new manifold are shallower than stock though, so that will require shorter bolts in the final assembly.

Vehicle Showcase / Re: Matthew's Lincoln LSC
« Last post by Matthew on February 27, 2018, 07:58:16 PM »
I have been working on the car quite a bit but have been too busy to post the details until now.

Here's a look at the difference between the stock oil pump driveshaft and the new hardened ARP shaft. When you install one of these, make sure that you get the retainer ring adjusted so that the driveshaft will not fall out when you pull the distributor out, but so that there is a little bit of endplay with the distributor installed.

Here's the new Comp Cams timing set, ready to go on.

Here's a shot of the Comp Cams timing set installed, straight up. There is a new ARP cam bolt and retainer hardware too.

Here's a shot with the freshly cleaned up front cover and oil pan installed. One of the things that takes time on a project like this is cleaning up all of the old parts that need to go back on. It's great to have an unmolested car, but that means 28 years of dirt and grease build up on everything too.

With 180000 km (112000 miles) and 28 years on the clock, there is no ridge on the cylinder walls and you can still see the crosshatch. In the carburetor days, this motor would probably have needed an overbore. As it is, there are probably several hundred thousand miles more moderate driving in the bottom end.

In preparation for the new heads, I chased all the head bolt threads in the block with a tap.

I like to soak new valvetrain parts in a 20-50 oil bath before installation. I buy a few new sealable plastic containers like this at Walmart for this purpose. More lubrication is always better than less on startup.

While you have the heads off, don't miss the opportunity to check that your timing pointer is correct. You can find true top dead center with a dial indicator on the #1 piston like this, then check that the timing pointer says "0".

In the case of this motor, the pointer was off about 2 degrees.

It only takes a little tweak to get it right, but once you have done this you can time the engine with a light and be SURE that you are right.

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